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Corinne Redfern spends a night on the town in Iraq. I open my mouth to protest — talking my way into things is a CV-listed strength. A friend takes over. The first thing I see walking through the door is someone passed out, head down on the pool table. Erbil is just 50km from Mosul where air strikes and suicide bombs in the war zone have devastated the city. But while the conflict has forced over 3 million Iraqi residents from their homes since , and the Islamic caliphate continues to impose its regime of terror across the region, Erbil or Irbil has remained largely unscathed. Here, sustaining peace is the order of the day — and alcohol-fuelled escapism provides the scene of the night. If you spend 18 hours a day, six days a week working with rape victims or children who have been used as human shields by ISIS, then you really need to find a way to decompress and socialise for a few hours on your one night off. Think commissioned firework displays, discarded piles of Louboutins, breakdancers and DJ sets.

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Travel north of the city to Madain Saleh, a spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site dating back to the 1st century BC. More than Nabatean tombs are.

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Shaho returned from Germany with his big sister, mother and father in December As the family was about to start their new business in Erbil, the world suddenly came to a standstill in the shadow of the coronavirus pandemic. But they never thought of giving up. Shaho recalls that landing in Berlin was very different from what he had heard about life in Europe. But it is hard to live in an asylum centre.

Seven months on, they took a decision to return home.

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It is one of the most ancient cities in the world, dating back at least to bce. Erbil has long been an important trade centre, with roads south to Arab Iraq and abroad to Turkey , Iran , and Syria. Hamilton runs from Erbil through the mountains and canyons northeast to the Iranian border. Erbil was already an ancient city when Alexander the Great famously defeated the Persian king Darius III some 50 miles 80 km northwest of it at the Battle of Gaugamela , also known as the Battle of Arbela Erbil , in bce.

The Muslims conquered Erbil in the 7th century, but it was not until Erbil was razed by the Turkic conqueror Timur Tamerlane in the late 14th century that it became largely Muslim.

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Historians claim that the city has been permanently inhabited since the 28th century B. With 30, years of history and, today, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Erbil or Hawler, as the locals call it is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan and a city that has played a very significant role in 21st-century history and the fight against the Islamic State. However, if you think that visiting Erbil is just about wandering around a traditional Muslim city, you are completely wrong, because this is a real pro-Western metropolis and a business hub, home to a large expat community and some of the best nightlife in the Middle East, often compared to Beirut.

I have visited it twice and it is a city which really fascinates me, so here is a complete E rbil travel guide, which includes things to do in Erbil , as well as transportation and accommodation tips. For all the practical information to the region, read: 50 Useful tips for traveling to Iraqi Kurdistan. This is where the Kurds meet, socialize and, basically, hang out. It is always crowded with all kinds of people, from kids to the local young hipsters and old men in their traditional clothes.

Just sit down, observe and all the pieces will come together. Read: Places to visit in Iraqi Kurdistan — A 2-week itinerary. The Kurds, especially the elderly, have one hobby, which is that they spend the whole day buying, selling and playing around with worry-beads, a sort of necklace. They touch them, squeeze them and switch them from one hand to the other, non-stop, for the whole day. You can see people playing with worry-beads all over the Middle East, especially in Turkey, but seriously, nowhere else it is as crazy as in Erbil and Iraqi Kurdistan in general.

Things to do in Erbil (Iraq) – A complete guide

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A publication of the Archaeological Institute of America. How the first excavations in an ancient city are supporting its claim as the oldest continuously inhabited place in the world. The foot-high, oval-shaped citadel of Erbil towers high above the northern Mesopotamian plain, within sight of the Zagros Mountains that lead to the Iranian plateau.

At various times over its long history, the city has been a pilgrimage site dedicated to a great goddess, a prosperous trading center, a town on the frontier of several empires, and a rebel stronghold. As a consequence, almost everything known about the metropolis—called Arbela in antiquity—has been cobbled together from a handful of ancient texts and artifacts unearthed at other sites.

Last year, for the first time, major excavations began on the north edge of the enormous hill, revealing the first traces of the fabled city. There, according to ancient texts, Assyrian kings sought divine guidance, and Alexander the Great assumed the title of King of Asia in B. Other new work includes the search for a massive fortification wall surrounding the ancient lower town and citadel, excavation of an impressive tomb just north of the citadel likely dating to the seventh century B.

Located on a fertile plain that supports rain-fed agriculture, Erbil and its surrounds have, for thousands of years, been a regional breadbasket, a natural gateway to the east, and a key junction on the road connecting the Persian Gulf to the south with Anatolia to the north. Yet, through thousands of years, the city survived, and even thrived, while other once-great cities such as Babylon and Nineveh crumbled.

The citadel remains at the heart of a thriving city with a population of 1. The refugees have since moved to new settlements, and efforts are currently under way to renovate the deteriorating nineteenth- and twentieth-century mudbrick dwellings and twisting, narrow alleys. A textile museum opened in a restored, grand, century-old mansion in early , and work rebuilding the adjacent nineteenth-century Ottoman gate, which sits on much more ancient foundations, is nearing completion.

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The earliest evidence for occupation of the citadel mound dates to the 5th millennium BC, and possibly earlier. It appears for the first time in historical sources in the Ebla tablets around 2, BC, and gained particular importance during the Neo-Assyrian period. During the Sassanian period and the Abbasid Caliphate , Erbil was an important centre for Christianity.

After the Mongols captured the citadel in , the importance of Erbil declined. During the 20th century, the urban structure was significantly modified, as a result of which a number of houses and public buildings were destroyed. In the same year, all inhabitants, except one family, were evicted from the citadel as part of a large restoration project. Since then, archaeological research and restoration works have been carried out at and around the tell by various international teams and in cooperation with local specialists.

The government plans to have 50 families live in the citadel once it is renovated. The only religious structure that currently survives is the Mulla Afandi Mosque. When it was fully occupied, the citadel was divided in three districts or mahallas : from east to west the Serai, the Takya and the Topkhana.

History on a Hill

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Helawa: A New Northern Ubaid/Late Chalcolithic Site in the Erbil Plain. Conference with a later occupation dating to the 2nd millennium BC.

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